I have a Non Greasy Body Butter Recipe already but I wanted to make it a little less costly. Hazelnut is a fairly expensive oil and it is also not readily available in the local supermarkets.   I am going to be holding a workshop in East London in January and wanted my attendees to be able to get the majority of ingredients from their high road or local shop. I know it’s possible to get grapeseed oil and cornflour (cornstarch) from the  supermarket and essential oils from Holland and Barrett or other health-food shops, so the only ingredient that people will have to buy online is mango butter which I might take along on the day for them to buy. They can just get down to making their butter’s  at home.

So,   today I made one righteous whipped body butter! Here are the instructions:

Ingredients

(for 25og)

Mango Butter (74%) 185g

Grapeseed Oil (20.5%) 51.25g

Vitamin E (0.5%) 1.25g

Cornflour (5%) 10g

Essential oil (1%) 2.5g

Method

Firstly, melt your oil, butter and cornflour in a bain-marie. Ensure they are melted fully.  Then take it off the heat and set aside. Periodically go back and stir the mixture – this is important as it will stop graininess.  Make sure you add the cornflour and the essential oil. You can add the essential oil under 45c.

So, you need to whisk, especially when you see it start to gel or solidify. But you don’t have to stand there whisking continuously, just go back every 10 minutes or so and give it a whizz.   I used my Kitchenaid with the whisk attachment and a heavy duty glass Kimble jar.

The butter will look like whipped egg whites! Anyone that make meringue will see that this is very similar – you get peaks in almost the same way and the colour should be the same- bright white.

It will be ready at about 25c to 21c.  I like to pot it at about 25c. When it starts to reach 21c you will notice that it settles and becomes almost like thick, whipped double cream – dense but fluffy.

Here is a picture  I took after it had settled.

Why not have a go at making one yourself? It’s a lot of fun!! xoxoxo

If you were a conscious human being in 1998 you may well remember the extremely popular song by Chef from South Park called ‘Chocolate Salty Balls’. Well, it is a naughty song but I and my friends had fun singing along to it and I have great memories of that period in my life, where I was young and carefree. This is a link to the Song in case you forgot.

This is my take on Chocolate Salty Balls,  but instead of ‘sucking’ on them you will need to ‘soak’ in them as they are for bathing.  They are made with Cocoa butter, Shea butter  and two Durosoft emulsifiers. I have used cocoa powder to make them a chocolate colour and Lavender essential oil.  They have been rolled in Himalayan salt.    I know you are eager to know the recipe, so here it is 🙂

CHOCOLATE SALTY BALLS

Theobroma Cacao Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Polyglyceryl-4-Laurate, Polyglyceryl-4-Oleate, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Powder Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower oil, Sodium Choloride (Himalayan) Salt

INGREDIENTINCI% USED
Cocoa ButterTheobroma Cacao41.75
Shea ButterButyrospermum parkii41.75
Durosoft PK-SGPolyglyceryl-4-Laurate6.75
Durosoft SFPolyglyceryl-4 Oleate6.75
Cocoa Powder Theobroma Cacao2.0
Lavender Essential OilLavandula Angustifolia1.0
Himalayan SaltSodium ChlorideQS

What you need to do:

  1. Combine 1-6 and heat until melted
  2. Stir well
  3. When it has cooled to under 50c add the lavender essential oil and stir
  4. Pour into some small moulds
  5. put in the fridge
  6. When it has cooled, remove from moulds and set aside
  7. They will eventually soften so that they are malleable in your hand and they may melt slightly with your body temperature.  At this point, they are ready to roll in the salt.
  8. Roll them in salt and set aside.
  9. YOU NOW HAVE CHOCOLATE SALTY BALLS!
  10. Well Done!

I used cake pop moulds – I made about 100g of product and poured 8 x 12.5g moulds.  When they were set I warmed them in my hands and fixed the halves together and then rolled them in the salt. You could use a large mould and when soft enough cut and mould in your hands – when the salt is around them they are easily manipulated without any significant melting.

As always, you can try with different ingredients. You might like to use different essential oils or butters. If so, make sure you use butters that are similar in melting point or consistency.

Have fun!!

A few weeks ago a woman in Formulators Kitchen was inquiring about making a facial bar from Fuller’s earth.   My advice at first, was that she probably needed some kind of binder in the form of a fatty acid.  That was until another person pointed out that Fresh cosmetics had one made out of a 100% Fullers earth.  I was a little surprised at first but when I looked into what Fuller’s earth was composed of, I had a theory.  So, Fullers earth contains high levels of magnesium aluminium silicate (MAS), a strong gelling agent.  When made wet the MAS would be activated and glue the clay together in a hard mass. After the water had evaporated, it would be a 100% dry bar . Having been curious about this I decided to have a go at making something similar. But, firstly, let’s look at what Fuller’s earth is.

FULLER’S EARTH

Fuller’s earth is classed as a clay as it mainly contains hydrous aluminium silicates (clay minerals) of varying composition. However in some localities ”fuller’s earth refers to calcium bentonite, which is altered volcanic ash composed mostly of montmorillonite”.(WIKI) Its latin name is Solum fullonum.

According to Wiki it is also known as;

Bleaching Clay – probably because it bleached cloth

Whitening Clay – because of its use in treating skin hyperpigmentation

Multani mitti – or ‘Mud of Multan’ as it was used in the beautification of the skin in ancient India

The name ‘Fuller’s Earth’ comes from its historical use. A few sources have said it was used in the process of cleaning lambswool as it is very effective at absorbing oil and dirt.  This process is still known as ‘fulling’ and is performed by ‘fullers’! It is an age-old treatment for acne due to its ability to absorb oil and contaminants.  Some varieties of Fuller’s earth are also highly anti-microbial, which would also add to its amazing superpowers.

So, what did I make? I started with a very simple clay bar quite like the Fresh one.  I don’t have a lab size soap press and I guess I would have been able to use a lot less water if I had something that could compress the clay.  I may not have needed water at all if I had a press that could exert enough pressure. So here they are;

Multani mitti Treatment Bar

I have used Witch Hazel in this but you can use water or a hydrolate if you wish.

Ingredients: Solum fullonum, Aqua (and) Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Water (and) Alcohol

Ingredient% used
Witch Hazel56.5
Fuller's Earth43.5

REVIEW:  This one is simple but effective. When water is introduced to the top of the bar becomes slimy and it cleanses well.  I would say that it is ideal if you are a purist.

Fuller’s Foaming Beauty Soap

This one has a touch of Plantapon LCG to give deeper cleansing. Its got a pH of the Plantapon of 6.5 so that should be fine. I am not sure the pH of the clay so it might be worthwhile checking the pH formulation while it is still wet.  You can always use coco-glucoside or a different liquid blend – anything to hand really.  If you need to, adjust the pH with a 50% citric acid solution.

The Ingredients to this are;

Solum fullonum, lauryl glucoside and Sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, Jasminum sp. (jasmine) hydrosol water

INGREDIENT% USED
Plantapon LCG10.00
Jasmine Hydrolate46.5
Fullers Earth43.5

REVIEW: This is similar to the first bar but has a little foaming action going on.

Lavender Milk Bar

Solum fullonum, Lavendula angustifolia (Lavender hydrosol water, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Copaifera Officinalis (Copaiba Balsam) oil, Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil, Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) flower oil.

INGREDIENTS% USED
Durosoft SF10.00
Copaiba Balsam1.00
Andiroba Oil1.00
Lavender EO0.3
Lavender Hydrolate44.2
Fullers Earth43.5

REVIEW: This is for people that like emulsifyiing oil cleansers. Its also nice for normal skin types as it is not too drying.

METHOD FOR ALL BARS:

Mix all the ingredients in order, press into a mould and leave to dry. I put mine in the lab oven for 8 hours at 60c which seemed to dry it out pretty well so that they were hard dry bars