I never tire of a good skin balm. They are easy to make, contain no water, so contamination is not an issue, and the variations are endless. You can make balms containing heavy oils and butters for a rich creamy texture suitable for dry and mature skin, or you can make powdery, dry feeling balms that are suitable for oily and acne prone skin. Balms tend to also be less reactive and suit those with sensitive skin, providing you use oils that are non-irritating. The balm formulation I am going to share today is a simple yet luxurious product that uses beeswax to thicken and my own home made frankincense infusion. I have also added rose essential oil for that added decadence. This is a multiuse balm, perfect for soothing dry skin, nourishing cuticles (and glossing up the nails); it could also be used as a pregnancy belly balm. This is an ideal recipe for formulation newcomers, and seasoned professional formulators alike.

Ingredient Spotlight: Why Each Component Matters

1. Beeswax (17.5%)

Beeswax is a waxy substance made by worker bees used to construct the hexagonal cells that they use to raise their young and to store pollen and honey.

Beeswax is what makes this balm a balm; it is the foundation that adds structure and combined with shea butter, creates a creamy, scoopable texture. Adding more beeswax will add more structure, making a firmer balm; and adding less will make a softer balm. For the skin, it adds a protective film that not only locks in moisture but adds a protective barrier to the external environment.

2. Grapeseed Oil (30%)

Grapeseed oil is a lightweight, non-greasy oil rich in with linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that soothes the skin and reduces trans-epidermal water loss. It’s easily absorbed, making it perfect for all skin types, particularly oily or acne-prone skin. The featherweight texture to this oil, balances the occlusive and rich nature of the shea butter, making for a more rounded product.

3. Frankincense Infusion (25%)

I used a premade (by me) frankincense infusion in capric/caprylic triglyceride (a fractionated coconut oil). Frankincense is renowned for its anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory properties, helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and soothe irritated skin. The infusion process ensures the resin’s beneficial compounds are gently extracted, creating a rich, earthy aroma with citrus undertones. You can find out how to make this extract here and if you do not want to use this extract, please substitute for another liquid oil, capric/caprylic triglyceride or another oil based extract of your choosing.

4. Vitamin E Oil (1%)

Vitamin E is both skin softening and an effective antioxidant. It is used in the formulation to protect fragile oils, like grapeseed, from oxidation. This can occur when oils come in contact with heat, light and air. Oxidisation can cause oils to turn rancid which affects the smell (and therefor stability) and benefits of the oil for the skin. By slowing down rancidity, vitamin E extends the shelf life of the balm, ensuring it remains fresh and effective for longer. Additionally, it adds an extra protection for your skin, protecting it from free radical damage that can result in premature ageing.

5. Shea Butter (26%)

Shea butter is for its rich, creamy texture and high concentration of vitamins A and E. It’s deeply moisturising and helps repair dry, damaged skin while providing a protective barrier against environmental stressors. Its natural fatty acids also make it incredibly nourishing, leaving the skin feeling smooth and rejuvenated.

6. Rose Maroc Essential Oil (0.5%)

Rose maroc essential oil is an expensive ingredient normally found in luxurious skincare products. It has a delicate floral scent with skin loving properties. It is used to promote skin regeneration, reduce redness and balance skin moisture levels making it perfect for all skin types including sensitive and mature skin.

Why This Combination Works

This formulation is a rounded blend of nourishing, rejuvenating and protective ingredients. The beeswax and shea butter bring heavy emollients that add a rich and creamy base. They also offer an occlusive layer which shields the skin from environmental aggressors. Grapeseed oil and the frankincense infusion add lightweight hydration and skin -repairing benefits. The scent from rose maroc and the frankincense infusion add a sensory luxury to this balm, making it a joy to use.

How to Customize Further

For a Firmer Balm: Increase the beeswax by 1–2% while reducing liquid oils.
For a Softer Balm: Reduce the beeswax and add a bit more shea butter or grapeseed oil.
Swap the Oils: Replace grapeseed oil or frankincense infusion with sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, or even argan oil for different skin benefits.
Adjust the Scent: If Rose Maroc isn’t your thing, try lavender, chamomile, or vanilla essential oils for a different aromatic experience.

The Formulation

Common Name/Trade Name	INCI	%	50 Grams
Beeswax	Cera alba	17.50	8.75
Grapeseed Oil	Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil	30.00	15.00
Frankincense Oil Infusion or Grapeseed Oil	Boswellia frereana Resin Oil, Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride	25.00	12.50
Vitamin E, Pourable	Tocopherol, Helianthus annuus	1.00	0.50
Shea Butter	Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) Butter	26.00	13.00
Rose Absolute	Rosa damascena Flower Oil	0.50	0.25

Equipment needed

1. 50 ML glass jar

2. Scales with 0.5 g increments at minimum (jewellry scales work well)

3. Bain Marie set up or hot plate

4. Various spoons and pipettes for measuring

How to Make It

Melt the Beeswax: In a double boiler, gently melt the beeswax over low heat. Beeswax has a high melting point, so be patient!
Add Shea Butter and Oils: Once the beeswax is melted, add the shea butter, grapeseed oil, and avocado oil. Stir until everything is fully combined and smooth.
Incorporate the Infusion: Remove the mixture from heat and let it cool for 2–3 minutes. Stir in the frankincense resin infusion and Vitamin E oil (if using).
Add Essential Oils: Finally, add the rose essential oil and mix well.
Pour and Set: Carefully pour the mixture into a clean 50g/mL jar. Let it cool completely at room temperature until set (about 1–2 hours).

How to Make a Frankincense and Rose Beauty Balm at home