Book Review: Modern Cosmetics – Your Ultimate Ingredient sidekick, Backed by Science
The team at Modern Cosmethics recently approached me about becoming an affiliate partner – and of course I said yes, having used their book for a good few years now.
To celebrate, I decided to revisit my original review of their book Modern Cosmetics. The last review was quite long and contained a lot of details so I have embarked on summarising the main points, which helps if you do not have time in your schedule to dedicate to a long blog post.
So here goes!
Modern Cosmetics is what I would refer to as a manual. It is a hefty 500 page hard back book that bills itself as the “world’s most comprehensive guide to natural cosmetic ingredients,” and after keeping it on my desk and using it for years, I can confirm that it is a veritable goldmine.
What’s so special?
Unlike fluffy skincare guides, this hardback book is written by scientists for formulators. It is a comprehensive guide to skincare ingredients of all kinds for the natural formulator. Warning, it doesn’t contain any formulations, just an honest focus on raw materials to make effective organic cosmetic products!
What’s inside?
Chapters 1-3 – The basics
These introductory chapters deal with definitions of organic and natural cosmetics and discusses legislation as well as non-statutory certifying bodies. There is a chapter on skin anatomy and types of delivery systems, be there lotions, toners, gels or facial masks.
Chapters 4-8 is a deep dive into ingredient categories.
Chapter 4 looks at emollients. It has monographs of over 60 different oils and butters with their fatty acid profiles and skin benefits. This undoubtedly helps with ingredient selection.
Chapter 5+6 – Emollients and occlusives – also known as ingredients that lock in moisture such as ceramides and flower waxes
Chapter 7 - Looks at water based thickeners. The chapter categorises thickeners into gums, pectins and mucilages.
Chapter 8 – Humectants – ingredients that attract moisture to the skin such as glycerin, and sorbitol; its less sticky sister.
Chapter 9 –Takes a closer look at acids to aid formulation and pH adjustment.
Chapters 12-18: These chapters contain variety of monographs for common and not so common active ingredients available for various skin complaints and solutions; ingredients that are brightening, anti inflammatory and circulation boosting.
Chapters 19-22 Deals with suncare ingredients, chemical peels/exfoliants, sweeteners for use in oral care and natural colourants.
The Verdict: Who’s It For?
✅ Invest: You’re a formulator, aesthetician, or skincare obsessive who wants a deeper understanding of raw materials, as well as their mechanisms of action. This is essential for selecting the right raw materials for specific types of product and for particular skin concerns.
❌ Don’t bother: You want step-by-step formulations (it’s a reference book, not a DIY guide).
Wishlist: More on sunscreens and a quick-reference chart (highlighters at the ready!).
Final Thought:
This isn’t a book you read cover-to-cover - it’s your ingredient sidekick. Keep it handy when formulating, and you’ll keep discovering gems.
👉 Grab your copy here, using the discount code botformulations to receive 5% off!