Book Review: Modern Cosmetics – Your Ultimate Ingredient sidekick, Backed by Science

The team at Modern Cosmetics recently reached out to me about becoming an official affiliate partner—and of course, I said yes! (I mean, after years of relying on this book, why wouldn’t I?)

To celebrate, I’m revisiting my original review with fresh eyes—shortening it, spicing it up, and giving you the real talk on why this hefty reference guide still earns a permanent spot on my shelf.

If you’ve ever stared at an INCI list and wondered, “But what does this actually do for my skin?”—this book is your answer. Modern Cosmetics bills itself as the “world’s most comprehensive guide to natural cosmetic ingredients,” and after keeping it on my desk for years (and spilling oil stains on a few pages—oops), I can confirm: it’s a goldmine.

Why This Book Stands Out

Unlike fluffy skincare guides, this 500-page A4 hardback is written by scientists for formulators, blending traditional wisdom with hardcore research. No fluff, just practical insights you can use.

The Basics (Ch. 1–3):

  • Clears up the “natural vs. organic” debate and EU regulations (boring, but essential!).

  • Skin 101: Function and structure of the skin, the difference between oily, dry, sensitive and mature—plus how different formulas (emulsions, gels, liposomes) interact with each.

The Good Stuff (Ch. 4–8):

  • Oils & Butters (Ch. 4): 60+ monographs with fatty acid profiles, skin benefits, and “aha!” tips (e.g., “Pair rosehip with sea buckthorn for irritated skin”).

  • Emollients and Occlusives (Ch. 5)- those ingredients that lock in moisture such as ceramides and flower waxes.

  • Humectants (Ch. 8): Why sorbitol is your secret weapon for less sticky hydrating serums (bye, glycerin glue-hands!).

The Nerdy Bits (Ch. 9–20):

  • Acids (Ch. 9): Beyond citric/lactic—tartaric acid, anyone?

  • Actives (Ch. 12–18): Anti-inflammatory, brightening, circulation-boosting—pick your potion.

  • Fun Fact (Ch. 21): Litmus paper is named after Roccella lichen (perfect for trivia night).

The Verdict: Who’s It For?

✅ Love it if: You’re a formulator, aesthetician, or skincare obsessive who wants a deeper understanding of raw materials, as well as their mechanisms of action. This is essential for selecting the right products, or ingredients for specific skin concerns!
❌ Skip it if: You want step-by-step recipes (it’s a reference book, not a DIY guide).

Wishlist: More on sunscreens and a quick-reference chart (highlighters at the ready!).

Final Thought:

This isn’t a book you read cover-to-cover—it’s your ingredient sidekick. Keep it handy when formulating, and you’ll keep discovering gems.

👉 Grab your copy here, using the discount code botformulations to receive 5% off!


Rebecca Wright