Alkanet Root (Alkanna tinctoria): Benefits, Safety, and Responsible Use

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Alkanet root is a perennial herb from the Boraginaceae family. It is native to the Mediterranean but also grows in Europe, Asia and Africa. It has been traditionally used for its bright red pigment, alkannin, used to dye textiles, cosmetics and even food. More recent research suggests that it may have antioxidant and antimicrobial properties and as such may be of health benefit (Ali-Shtayeh et al., Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2002).

Chemical Composition & Benefits

In terms of chemical composition, alkanet root contains alkannin and shikonin, both of which are pigments purported to be wound healing and anti-inflamatory. It also contains phytosterols (beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol), and fatty acids (palmitic, stearic and oleic).

Safety Considerations and Recommendations

Alkanet root contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PA’s) which are compounds known for the hypertoxicity (cause liver damage) when used in high doses and over prolonged exposure.

A 2003 study found that alcoholic extracts of PA’s were toxic to human lymphocytes in vitro at high concentrations (Ali-Shtayeh et al.).

A 2012 found PA exposure caused liver damage in Rats (Fu et al., Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 2012).

Another study in 2014 found PA’s detected in the human blood stream after cosmetic use (Lachenmeier et al., Journal of Toxicology).

Like many chemical compounds, health benefits and toxicity depends on dose, and as the adage goes ‘the dose makes the poison’. After reviewing all the available evidence, The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, the gold standard for safety assessment for cosmetic ingredients, have recommended alkanet root as safe when used at ≤2% concentration.

As a side note, because alkanet is a natural product, the PA content can vary depending on growing location, growing conditions and processing and some manufacturers use PA-free extracts or purification methods to reduce risks.

conclusion

Alkanet is a natural product with a long history of use as a textile dye and as a food additive. It is also a favoured material for colouring soap and other cosmetic products. It also appears o have some anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties that need further exploration. There are limits to use due to its potential health risks and as such it is recommended that no more than 2% pure alkanet root is used in a cosmetic product.

How to Make Alkanet Root Infusion (Oil)

COMMON NAME/TRADE NAMEINCI% w/wGRAMS
Olive OilOlea europaea Fruit Oil 80% 240.00
Whole Alkanet Alkanna tinctoria Root20%60.00

Method:

  1. Grind alkanet

  2. Add to jar

  3. Add olive oil

  4. Leave to steep in the oil for a few weeks

 
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References:

Ali-Shtayeh, M. S., Jamous, R. M., Abu-Zaitoun, S. Y., Akkawi, R. J., & Kalbouneh, S. R. (2002). Antioxidant activity of methanolic extract of Alkanna tinctoria roots. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 82(2-3), 145-151. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0378-8741(02)00174-3

Ali-Shtayeh, M. S., Abu Ghdeib, S. I., & Safi, J. M. (2003). Antimicrobial activity of Alkanna tinctoria (L.) Tausch (Boraginaceae) extracts against some pathogenic microorganisms. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 88(2-3), 221-226.

Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. (2007). Final report on the safety assessment of Alkanna tinctoria root extract, Alkanna tinctoria seed oil, and alkannin. International Journal of Toxicology, 26(Suppl 2), 47-56. doi: 10.1080/10915810701351186.

Fu, P. P., Yang, Y. C., Xia, Q., Chou, M. W., & Cui, Y. Y. (2012). Urgent need to develop effective analytical and detoxification methods for poisonous plant-derived herbal medicines. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 140(1), 13-21. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jep.2012.01.009

Lachenmeier, D. W., Musshoff, F., Madea, B., & Steffen, C. (2014). Pyrrolizidine alkaloids in a cosmetic patch and in hair samples after long-term use of the patch. Journal of Toxicology, 2014, 973592. https://doi.org/10.1155/2014/973592

Saroglou, V., Marin, P. D., & Rancic, A. (2006). Composition of the essential oil of Alkanna tinctoria (L.) Tausch et its biological significance. Journal of Essential Oil Research, 18(3), 277-280. https://doi.org/10.1080/10412905.2006.9699154

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